Traveling Home to Iowa: Family Time & State Fair Food
I just returned from Iowa a few days ago, and it was a trip filled with joy and sadness. The main reason for our visit was to see my grandma. Living 1,000 miles away from her makes it challenging to visit, especially as a mom. I wish I could go more often, but I’m incredibly grateful that my mom and I took the opportunity to travel together to spend time with her last week. It was such a special time, and I cherished every moment—having dinner with her, making her laugh, accidentally playing piano for her entire facility, and holding her hand as much as I could.
We also enjoyed some fun activities along the way. We stopped at our favorite shops, visited the Iowa State Fair, and treated ourselves to some cozy hotels with delicious dinners.
Some of you have been reading my blog for the past fifteen years, and you know I spent much of my childhood and teen years in Iowa. My parents were military, and when my dad retired, we settled in my mom’s hometown of Ottumwa, Iowa. Even though I don’t live there anymore, I still love Ottumwa. It’s not the same as when I was a kid, but it always fills me with nostalgia when I visit. We always make sure to stop by my favorite spots like Grahams, The Canteen, and my grandma’s house.
I’m excited to share this travel recap blog with you today because it’s about one of my favorite places. Next month, I’ll be sharing blogs from Germany and Italy, but deep down, I know they won’t be as special as this one—a place that will always hold a special place in my heart.
Watch this blog come to life in my video diary!
My mother-in-law flew in on Wednesday to help care for my son while Kyle worked. My mom and I headed to the airport at 4:45 AM for a Des Moines, Iowa flight! I used my flight points with Southwest, which meant we had to take a flight with a stop in Denver. It’s not always easy to find direct flights into Iowa with Southwest. However, my mom and I had fun traveling together, giving me time to drink coffee, read my book, catch up on blogs, and relax. I don’t get much of that as a mom at home; I’m either working or handling mom duties. It was a nice break!
I started A Court of Wings and Ruin and love it so far. Many people told me they didn’t like the third book, but it has hooked me. There is so much to soak in while reading this series, so I’m trying to take my time and savor every chapter. Another girl was reading this book on my flight, and we totally gave each other that look, like we were both wearing the same team shirt.
When we landed in Denver, we had a few hours to waste. I planned on editing my apple crisp recipe, and we picked up some breakfast to split since we were both getting hungry. We stopped at Modern Market Eatery and ordered the omelet with cheddar cheese, kale, peppers, tomatoes, bacon, ham, toast, and potatoes. Their lunch menu looked really good, so I highly recommend stopping there if you’re in the Denver airport.
Surety Hotel in Downtown Des Moines, Iowa
In the late afternoon, we finally made it to Des Moines, Iowa, and headed to the Surety Hotel Downtown for the night. We planned to grab dinner and hit the pillow early to wake up, work out, and get ready for a road trip to Ottumwa, Iowa, to see my grandma.
During our trip, we stayed at two really nice hotels in downtown Des Moines. The Surety was the first one, and it’s so beautiful inside. The restaurant was delicious, and the staff was super nice. Oh, and the beds were buttery soft! After a super long trip, we had the best night’s sleep ever.
The Surety Hotel has a rich history, originally built in 1913 as the Iowa Loans & Trust Company. It was beautifully reconstructed into a stunning and cozy hotel in 2020! I couldn’t help but take photos everywhere, getting ideas for my own house. This place is absolutely gorgeous!
By the time 6 PM rolled around, we were hungry and ready for a delicious farm-to-table meal at Mulberry Street Tavern! I made a reservation to secure our spot when I originally booked the hotel, and luckily, it’s just downstairs in the lobby, so we didn’t have to walk far for one of the most delicious meals in Des Moines!
Mulberry Street Tavern | Des Moines, Iowa
I was struggling a bit, so I asked for a shot of espresso to help keep my eyes open long enough to scarf down my meal.
When traveling, my mom and I love to order a bunch of food and split everything. The only downside is that she won’t touch Brussels sprouts, and I heard Mulberry Street Tavern had some of the best. So, you’ll have to try those and let me know what you think!
We started with the burrata with heirloom tomatoes, local basil, garlic confit, olive oil, pure flake sea salt, Scenic Route baguettes, and creamy burrata. It was absolutely delicious! We also enjoyed the buffalo cauliflower as a starter. I’ve been craving buffalo cauliflower and have been meaning to make it at home soon, so it really hit the spot. I asked them to hold the blue cheese, and we sprinkled a little of the leftover burrata on top, which was amazing!
For our next round, we shared black garlic Caesar salads, charred carrots, and the star of the show, the half chicken. I could have licked the plate clean! This half chicken was cooked and seasoned perfectly, served with aji amarillo crema, grilled romaine, tomato, and red onion.
The only dish we wouldn’t order again was the charred carrots, as they were seasoned with something we didn’t like, but everything else was a solid 10/10!
We had to roll ourselves out of there! I also can’t forget to mention that our waiter was absolutely phenomenal and so fun to talk to. He made our experience at the restaurant even better!
We woke up to the most beautiful pink sky view out our hotel room window. After enjoying our morning coffee, we packed our bags and headed to the airport to grab our rental car before hitting the road for our trip!
The hotel offers complimentary coffee in the lobby each morning, but you can also get breakfast and signature coffee drinks made at the Surety Coffee Bar!
Homegrown Kitchens for Breakfast | Des Moines, Iowa
We were getting hungry, so we stopped at Homegrown Kitchen for breakfast before heading to Ottumwa. The menu looked amazing, and a few people had recommended the spot before our visit.
We stopped at the one near Jordan Creek Mall (where we used to shop almost every weekend as kids!) and got a table immediately.
My mom and I split the Greek yogurt fruit and granola bowl, crispy bacon, and avocado toast with two eggs cooked over medium. The coffee was so good!
We must always stop in Pella when we drive to Ottumwa from Des Moines. Pella is seriously the cutest town in Iowa! The downtown area is filled with cozy shops and bakeries, flowers lining every street, a square filled with gardens and windmills, and so much to see. It truly is a dream town! They keep it beautiful all year round with tulip festivals, fall decorations, and Christmas lights, and when it’s covered in snow, it feels like a real-life Hallmark movie! If you ever find yourself in Iowa, please put Pella on your MUST-SEE list.
Cranberry Stone Bakery | Pella, Iowa
The entire downtown is charming, and we couldn’t help but stop at Cranberry Stone Bakery as we walked by. It was so pretty! We picked out an almond blackberry cupcake for my grandma’s dessert. We tried it after dinner with her, and OMG, it was one of the yummiest cupcakes ever! My grandma loved it, especially the blackberry filling.
Garden squares are everywhere, and each shop drowns itself with stunning curb appeal.
Chai Latte at Iris Coffee | Pella, Iowa
We stopped at Iris Coffee for a warm chai latte to enjoy during the final miles of our drive to Ottumwa. There’s nothing better than sipping on a cozy drink on a road trip! Even though they had the summer menu out, the sidewalks were covered in fall leaves, the wind was blowing, and the temps were in the mid-seventies—definitely a fall day in South Carolina. I felt so happy to have such amazing weather during our trip! I do miss those Iowa Fall days. 
We mainly stop in Pella for the Dutch letters at Jaarsma Bakery! These have been a staple for years!
There’s usually a line that wraps around both the inside and outside of the building. We came at a good time because it gets super busy on the weekends! We picked up the famous Dutch letters for my grandma and packed a few for ourselves to bring back home. They’re so crispy on the outside and filled with almond filling—absolutely to die for! I’ve even ordered these online several times to have them shipped to South Carolina as gifts.
Dutch Letters at Jaarsma Bakery Pella, Iowa
You absolutely have to stop at Jaarsma Bakery for a Dutch letter! My mom and I used to stop here on the way back from our shopping weekends and have a letter with coffee!
Vermeer Windmill | Pella, Iowa
The gardens surrounding the Vermeer Windmill are stunning, and this town does not look like it’s in Iowa! It’s as if you traveled to another country, and I think you’ll love it!
After checking into our hotel in Ottumwa, we headed out for coffee and spent the entire day and evening with my grandma. We grabbed almond milk cappuccinos at The Vine, next to where my grandma stays.
Fun fact about The Vine Coffee: when I attended Indian Hills Community College, I used to stop by to do my homework. One day, I decided to start a Tumblr blog (you know, so I could avoid studying), and fifteen years ago, I was sitting in a booth there creating my Tumblr, which eventually turned into my blog today. It’s wild to see that the coffee shop is still around, and it gave me chills to sit in that same booth where it all began and changed my life! I guess I’m just a sucker for nostalgic memories. 
Seeing my grandma was tough. She has Parkinson’s, which has affected her mobility and taken many of her memories. It’s heartbreaking to see her suffering and declining day by day. I feel so guilty for not visiting as often as I should.
We laughed together, cried, watched videos, and spent every minute holding hands and reminiscing about the good times. It was especially hard for my mom because she feels the same way I do, but it’s her mom making it even tougher. Getting older is hard, especially when saying goodbye to our loved ones. I wish we lived closer, but sometimes life isn’t always easy.
My sweet friends made my visit with my grandma even more special. Brittany from Gifted Culture helped me design a custom bracelet featuring my grandma and grandpa’s names, details in her favorite color, a gold cross, and a special Bible verse. She made the bracelet for me in just 24 hours, and it brought my grandma to tears. She kept telling me how much she loved it, wore it every morning while I was there, and proudly showed it to everyone. It truly was a special gift!
Gifts for Grandma | Small Business ran By Moms!
I also brought flowers from Double R Flower Farm! One of my friends, Kristen, started a flower farm in Ottumwa, and she creates the most stunning arrangements. My grandma loved them, and Kristen placed them in a beautiful vase that matched her favorite color.
I ordered my grandma’s favorite Taco pizza from Happy Joe’s for dinner! We sat in a cozy private dining area and enjoyed pizza, salad, and that yummy cupcake.
My mom and I helped the nurses with my grandma’s nighttime routine, then headed back to the hotel by 9 PM to shower and get some good sleep!
Bridge View to the Greater Ottumwa Park Trails
We woke up early for a 4-mile walk around the trails. We strolled through our old stomping grounds, where we used to play at the park, ice skate on the ponds, and play softball. The weather was perfect in the 60s, and the gorgeous pink sunrise skies made the walk even more beautiful.
Hub Coffee Downtown Ottumwa, Iowa
We needed some good coffee (none of that hotel room packet stuff), so we stopped at Hub Coffee in Downtown Ottumwa. I remembered going there with Kyle during our last visit, and the coffee was fantastic. We ordered two oat milk cappuccinos and a bagel for breakfast, and everything was amazing! This was probably the best-tasting coffee we had on our entire trip to Iowa.
My grandma wanted a photo from her house, so my mom and I stopped by before spending all Saturday with her. I love my grandma’s house; it’s a cozy green cottage with the prettiest front porch. The fall photo I took of her house five years ago was shared over 1 million times on Pinterest—it’s that cozy! It doesn’t feel the same without my grandma there, but my family in town keeps the home nice and occupied, so it’s not just left abandoned.
The last time we were there, my grandma made us pot roast on the stove, offered us food, sat at the piano with Kyle, and showed him all of Grandpa’s photos. It’s crazy how things can change in the blink of an eye. Life isn’t fair. 
This is the picnic table where we’d have summer get-togethers with my grandma and grandpa. All the cousins would run barefoot, fighting over who would go next on the swing my grandpa built in the backyard. It’s the same swing my mom and her sisters used to play on, and it’s still there! It wasn’t your ordinary swing; it would swing you up and down and around in a circle! I doubt any company would sell something like that today because of how dangerous it was, but that’s the best part about our childhood memories.
My grandma was so excited when we told her we were bringing her Canteen for lunch! The Canteen is a famous, family-owned, and local favorite in Ottumwa. It’s historical and iconic! The decor has been left the same since the 1940s, making it a MUST-SEE spot when visiting Iowa. We always order the famous Canteen burger with pickles, onions, ketchup, and mustard when we go. It’s just loose meat burgers with toppings, but they make it taste so good! I really should do a replica recipe on the blog soon! Each bite is nostalgic!
My grandma’s nurses were so sweet and made us some coffee while we were there. We got her in her wheelchair and took her out of her room to grab some fresh air. She showed us her favorite spot by the birds; the cage was amazing! The birds had so much room to fly, and they were all so happy snuggled up on the branches. I asked Kyle if he could build me something like his! Of course, he said no. 
She asked me if I could play the piano for her as we wheeled by. I’ve been teaching myself piano for five years and was thrilled to play for my grandma! We spent over an hour at that piano, jamming to Elvis, Ray Charles, church songs, Etta James, and Judy Garland—and my grandma was singing along! She sounded so beautiful that I couldn’t help but tear up. My grandpa was a piano player. He played every night sang to all of us, we sang with him; and my grandma grew up with the sound of the piano always playing in her house.
When I finished, I saw nearly 20 of her friends sitting in their wheelchairs, listening to music. It melted my heart! This moment made me want to get even better at the piano so that I could play at nursing homes and care centers. It was such a special experience!
After helping my grandma with her nighttime routine, we cleaned up at the hotel and headed to my aunt’s for a family get-together. It was great seeing my cousins and enjoying some delicious Midwestern food again! My aunt always puts on the best backyard BBQs with brownies, hamburgers, hot dogs, cheesy potato casserole, apple Snickers salad, and fruit! My cousin has been gardening and farming and brought his Iowa sweet corn, which was out of this world. He has ruined corn for me forever—it was that amazing!
We didn’t get back to the hotel until around 10 PM, and the next morning, we had breakfast with my grandma before saying our goodbyes around noon. That goodbye was tough. I felt a knot in my stomach, not knowing when I’d be back or how much she might decline by then. That was the hardest part about visiting.
Walking out was so hard. I spent the entire drive back to Des Moines crying and chatting with my mom about our wonderful memories with Grandma. It breaks my heart to see her always talk about my son, and knowing in the back of my mind they may never meet. It was gutwrenching. 
My mom and I needed a pick-me-up after that drive. We only had the day left in Iowa before flying out early, so we stopped at the Famous Iowa State Fair for good food to put us in a good mood. It’s been years since I’ve been to the Iowa State Fair, and it’s one of THE BEST in America.
The salad and fruit on a stick in the Agriculture building looked refreshing, so we picked some up before checking out all the other good food along the strip. The fruit was so fresh!
The Famous Butter Cow | Iowa State Fair
And we absolutely had to stop by the famous butter cow!
I’m definitely feeling my age because now it’s all about the flowers that excite me, not the rides! When I was younger, I was all about the rides and the food!
I’ll be so happy if the pumpkins I’m growing this year are this big! Can you imagine growing something like this?
We got our protein fix at the Depot with a steak sandwich with Monterey cheese, peppers, and onions. It was really good, and much better than salad on a stick.
These Barksdale State Fair Cookies are to die for! I bought a huge bucket for the family to take home in my suitcase. They are crispy and chewy and taste like cookie dough! I loved them! They are worth the hype.
It’s tradition to get Nitro Ice Cream! It’s SO CREAMY and does not melt instantly like other ice cream. It is the creamiest ice cream you’ll ever have.
After hitting 10,000 steps at the Iowa State Fair, we returned to Downtown Des Moines to check into our hotel for the night.
We booked Hotel Fort Des Moines for our last night of the trip. It was STUNNING! Although newly renovated, the hotel dates back to 1919. It reminded me of the Titanic.
The rooms were so large and comfortable. We were so excited to get cleaned up and dive into a bed for a few hours to decompress before dinner.
I grabbed a coffee from Hobnob Coffee in the hotel lobby and took it back to my room to sip while I caught up on some computer work. I could have stayed in those super-soft hotel beds for days!
We made an early dinner reservation at the hotel restaurant Proudfoot & Bird. We had to get up at 3 am to leave for the airport, so we needed to eat, pack, and get tucked into bed.
Proudfoot & Bird Restaurant Des Moines, Iowa
We started with the Greek salads. This was the best thing we had on their menu that night. It had local lettuce, cherry tomatoes, cucumbers, feta, pickled banana peppers, and olives over a tomato vinaigrette. 
For my main, I ordered the Piri Piri Chicken, hoping it would compare to the incredible chicken I had at Mulberry Street Tavern. Unfortunately, it was a letdown. Everything was undercooked, lacked flavor, and felt underwhelming, especially for the price. My mom’s pasta was nearly crunchy, and our “charred” green beans were undercooked and crunchy, with what looked like bland canned tomatoes poured on top. For a $100 meal, this wasn’t it. The flavors didn’t make sense, and it was strange to be served cold food when we were the only ones in the restaurant.
I don’t enjoy giving bad reviews, but I can’t imagine one of you trying this place, spending so much money, and leaving disappointed. On the plus side, our waitress was very sweet, and the atmosphere was stunning. We did enjoy the salad, tho!
Despite the disappointing meal, we had a great time at the hotel and a really good night’s sleep—after we finished off a bag of trail mix and beef jerky in the room!
We were up early on Monday to drop off the rental car and head back home!
Gosh, I love Iowa, and I had the best time!!
Questions for you!
- Have you ever been to the Iowa State Fair?
- Did you move away from where you grew up?
- Have you ever had a canteen-style burger?
Omg yes!! I just got married at the Surety Hotel a month ago! Not surprised you enjoyed it – especially the coffee and food! Lovely post 🩷
I bet your wedding was stunning! Such a beautiful spot.
HI Taralynn! Your trip looks amazing 🙂
This post melted my heart because I totally understand your feelings. I grew up in Poland but I have been living in Spain for the last 10 years. It´s 3 hours flight from Barcelona to my hometown in Poland, I usually go 2-3 times per year.
But every time I come back to my hometown I realize that the time is passing by too quickly. The last time I came was in January when my Grandma passed away 🙁 It was hard because I booked my flights and she passed away 2 days before my flight so I couldn´t say good bye to her the way I wanted.
Now I am in Poland as well, I came for few days and I am trying to spend as much time with my second Grandma as I can. She is a real angel and my best friend. I can´t imagine this world without her.
I send you a big hug and I hope you will have a chance to see your Grandma again soon!
Kisses from Poland!
Hi, Milena!
Thank you so much for stopping by to read:)
I’m so sorry to hear about your grandma. That is so hard. I can’t imagine how tough that must have been for you. Sending all the prayers your way! <3
I moved away from home last November to Summerville, SC and this post made me cry. My parents are elderly (Dad is turning 83 this year) and he has dementia. Seeing the smartest man I know in that state is gut-wrenching so I 100% know what you’re feeling. The guilt I carry from leaving is heavy, but I did it for the right reasons and I’m very happy. But going home is tough – I go home again next month and while I’m so looking forward to it, it’ll be a little heartbreaking too.
Also the Iowa State Fair looks amazing and I need something like that in SC stat!
Oh, Amy! My heart goes out to you. I can’t even imagine how you must feel. It’s one of those bittersweet things, but stay strong. I’ll be keeping you in my prayers.
Hi there – follower of I want to say almost 15 years..?
I became a mom, you became a mom, I kind of dropped off following the blog, but would still come back from time to time for nostalgia, comfort, always loved your writing and your content, although we live in super different countries / settings 🙂
This post brought me back years ago, following your adventures, travels, food & coffee moments, good times with your mom. It was so heartwarming and so lovely to read.
It also reminded me of my own journey with my grandma (moved to a different country and could only visit seldomly when she got sick, had a few quality moments but less than I would have liked) – sending you lots of strength and love.
I wish you well, and am happy to be back on your blog, following your sweet stories through life 🙂 Thanks for sharing these moments with us – I know it’s not easy with a toddler!
Hi, Melodie!
Thank you so much. I get many of those feelings when I’m back in Iowa! & thank you for those sweet words!
<3
Loved this Iowa recap! What a nice, albeit sad, trip for you and your mom. Your grandmother is precious and I loved how you played the piano for her and her friends. You are a woman of many talents! The town of Pella looks so cute. I have a pen pal in Iowa who loves Pella and it was fun having your photos bring it to life. I visited Solvang in California this summer, which is a Danish town and has the same European vibes.
Thanks for stopping by to read, Susie!
I think it’s so cool you have a pen pal in Iowa! How fun is that.
I’ve heard of Solvang before! I’ll have to add that to my travel list 🙂
all the emotions! I can really relate, had been living abroad from my dear grandma for the last 2 years of her life. Had 2 babies and she only met my younger one once. I’m glad you all had an amazing time together, you will always cherish those memories❤️ loved your blog since 2011❤️
Do what you can to get your son to meet his great g-ma…there will no regrets for whatever time, $, etc that will bring her so much joy.
I didn’t know you were an Iowa girl! I love you even more now 🙂